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No, technically. Any screw that has a good connection to a metal part of the dryer will work.
Connections that are part of a listed assembly, where part of the listing process, are acceptable since the grounding connections have been tested. Machine screws with at least two threads or secured with a nut are acceptable, and any self-tapping screw, where at least two threads are formed, are acceptable.
Can I attach ground wire to mounting screw? Hook the screw loop around the green ground screw on your mounting bracket or light fixture and tighten the screw to hold it in place. If your light fixture has its own green ground wire you will need to connect the two ground wires using a wire nut.
Section 250.8
AC circuits, less than 50 volts. AC circuits of less than 50 volts shall be grounded if they are installed as overhead conductors outside of buildings or if they are supplied by transformers and the transformer primary supply system is ungrounded or exceeds 150 volts to ground.
Sheet metal screws must not be used to connect grounding or bonding conductors to metal enclosures since threads on sheet metal screws are too far apart to provide a low-impedance path from the screw to the enclosure. A grounding screw or some other listed grounding device must be used.
It is not required to ground the mounting plate. That green screw is only there for convenience of grounding a metal fixture with no separate ground wire. With the two wires you described connected together you are good.
Equipment grounding conductors within metal boxes must be connected to the metal box with a grounding screw that’s not used for any other purpose, an equipment fitting listed for grounding, or a listed grounding device such as a ground clip [250.148(C)].
1) All junction boxes will require a grounding screw “if” there are any splices in, or devices attached to that box.
ALL METAL boxes, conduit, etc used in an electrical system needs to be grounded.
No, you do not have to attach a grounding wire directly to the metal enclosure if you are just using it as a pull point and you are otherwise grounding it using continuous runs of EMT.
If the bare is not properly connected at the panel, it would trip the breaker. No problem with a bare ground wire touching any metal case/box if the metal cases are grounded. It is cheaper to make the wire.
The appliance will operate normally without the ground wire because it is not a part of the conducting path which supplies electricity to the appliance. In the absence of the ground wire, shock hazard conditions will often not cause the breaker to trip unless the circuit has a ground fault interrupter in it.
The ground wire and the neutrals connect at the breaker box; there’s also a ground wire going to a main water pipe and/or a ground-rod driven into the ground. If it’s the main panel, it goes into the neutral bus bar. The ground and neutral wires go into the same bar.
The white wires (neutrals) are on the right bar, while the bare copper wires (grounds) are connected on the left bar. At the top of the panel, the two bars are joined together by a single bar, the subpanel neutral, and also a green screw (see top left) that grounds the panel too.
If the main service panel happens to be the same place that the grounded (neutral) conductor is bonded to the grounding electrode, then there is no problem mixing grounds and neutrals on the same bus bar (as long as there is an appropriate number of conductors terminated under each lug).
To add grounding to an existing panel, drive a ground rod into the ground and connect a grounding wire to the main electrical panel. Install new power outlets that have a continuous grounding path back to the grounding rod.
Distance From House to Ground Rod To ensure there is no interference from the footing, the ground rod should be placed no closer than 2 feet from the exterior wall of the house.
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